Skye is an amazing place, in many ways. The variety in the landscapes, the changeability of the weather, the amount of water there is to plop into. And there’s only about 10 roads for the whole island, so there’s little chance of “just noticing” everything when driving on the way to somewhere, so much of the island is simply not visible from the road. So, with OS landranger maps 23, 32 and 33 in hand, we had a beach in mind.
Leaving Portree, heading South for Broadford, there’s a left hand turn, marked as a dead end to The Braes, down the ubiquitous single track road with passing places. The track passes a church, and a recycling point (which seems odd to me at first, but why shouldn’t there be recycling on the island?), then the trees on the left give way to fields and the beach of Camas a´Mhor-Bheòil. One of the houses on the right has a (very) small car park in front of it; opposite that there is a gravel path the leads down to the beach. It’s a little bit narrow in places, but my 4 year old manages it with not issues. The beach is half pebble and half sand – that unusual sand on Skye that is a mixture of very dark and very light grains, leading to the appearance of grey sand.
The swim was lovely, of course. The sea was perhaps best described as ‘fresh’, but certainly easily swimmable in a wetsuit. The bay is North facing, away from the prevailing wind, and protected from the colder currents. At points, the sea was a still as mill pond, at others there was quite a wind, whipping grey sand at the bare legs of my children. The water is crystal clear – the grey sand is interspersed with small forests of seaweed, swaying in the gentle currents. The slope of the beach is very gentle, so I barely get out of my depth, despite swimming out a good 50 or 60 metres from the beach. If anything, the swim is nicest further out, as the seaweed gives way to more sand.
The bay is home to 10,000 jelly fish. Small ones, no bigger than a lime I would say. But thousands of them. I have only a handful of stings, mainly on my right hand – relaxed hand, straight into a big clump of them. I did not get anyone to pee onto it. The bay is only a couple of hundred metres wide, but as its so sheltered swimming out a couple of hundred metres is also safe enough as a solo swimmer; a circuit of about half a mile is certainly possible.
And how many people would miss it by sticking to the main roads?

